Description: Woman's calesh-style bonnet in red and white thin striped cotton, which is unlined and probably intended for summer use. "Calash" is a term taken from the carriage cover which could be collapsed or flattened when not in use. This form of head cover originated in France, but was soon popular in England and the American colonies. This style, which shielded the wearer's eyes and created a sense of modesty, remained in fashion for about 30 years in the late 18th century and experienced a revival during the 1820 to the 1840s. Such bonnets were worn over elaborate linen or cotton caps that protected them from damage cases by hair oils. The 'fall' (or 'bavolet'), the long ruffled piece at the back of some of these bonnets, also protected the modesty of the wearer as current hair styles did not cover the back of the neck. Silk bonnets strengthened with either reeds or wires gained popularity in the 1820s. The fabric is gathered in three sections and joined by three self ribs, stiffened only by the quilting process, not wired. The brim edge is ruffled. The small back (equivalent of crown) of the bonnet is similarly quilted to stiffen it (3" wide by 3.5" tall). The fall of bavolet is 4.25" and there are two short self ribbons, 9". The sections are tacked together on the inside by two 6" narrow cotton tapes.
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