Description:
Man's linen work or over shirt made of bleached linen with the extra fabric used as underwear with the longer length tucked into trousers or breeches to cover and protect body parts. Men's linen shirts are examples of some of the finest stitches found on domestic items of clothing. The square-cut shirt, with minor changes in construction, served as the foundation for men’s clothing during the 18th and 19th centuries. The body of this example was cut from one piece of bleached linen fabric that extends from the front hem, over the shoulders, to the back. The overly long length, and long splits on either side extending up from the hem, suggest the working nature of this garment, which would have been worn over a man's regular shirt and breeches or trousers. Triangular pieces called gussets were inserted at the collar and sleeve openings to provide the only concession to fit. The shirt has a tall collar and the shirt placket is secured by two small mother-of-pearl (nacre) buttons with corresponding buttonhole loops. The sleeve heads are gathered into the body of the shirt; the shirt body itself is gathered into the collar, and the sleeves are gathered into the shirt cuffs. The body of the shirt is composed of a wide piece of linen that extends from the front to the back. There are no curved seams; the gussets inserted into the collar and underarm areas help give a rudimentary fit to this type of full-fitting garment. The shirt has two long slits on either side at the bottom, to accomodate movement. The shoulders of this garment are reinforced inside with additional patches of white linen to help wear and tear. This example is made from linen spun with an S-twist.
Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+F.360 |
