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Culture:American (probably)
Title:dress
Date Made:1890-1900
Type:Clothing
Materials:textile: blue and white checked plain weave cotton; bleached (white) plain weave cotton bodice lining; metal hook and eye closures
Place Made:United States
Measurements:Center Back - CB: 44 in; 111.8 cm
Accession Number:  HD F.135
Museum Collection:  Historic Deerfield

Description:
Woman's blue and white checked Mother Hubbard dress from the late 19th century. Machine stitched. Skirt is gathered and attached over the bodice. Center back opening with metal hook and eye closures (now rusted). Self fabric, wrap around belt. A patch pocket on the proper right front side of the skirt. Utilitarian, sack-like dresses or robes such as Mother Hubbards were made high waisted, and relatively simple to put on (one piece, front opening, no boning) for work or when pregnant. Woman’s one-piece, back-fastening dress or smock made from a blue and white checked (woven design) cotton. The machine-sewn garment features a gathered, fallen collar, high bodice yolk, gathered skirt set high, and long, full sleeves (gathered at the sleeve head into the armscyes). Each sleeve terminates in a wide (2 ½”) loose cuff (and slightly gathered into each cuff at the outside), suggesting too that this smock was worn over more fashionable dress.
The dress is only really fitted at the bodice yolk. It secures down the CB with metal hooks and eyes (three, top-most one lost and partially replaced), and metal snaps in the skirt. Additionally, the smock has a 2 ¾” wide self fabric tie (one on each side) set at the natural waist level. All pieces of the garment are attached on the straight grain. Machine stitching in many areas was quite hastily done (crooked), suggesting this was a work garment that was possibly ready-made, with no great care needed or required. Inside, the sleeves were basted first before being machine sewn into each armscye. Below the bodice yolk at the CB opening, there are selvage edges at each side (practical). One side seam on either side of the skirt. Fading and subsequent light damage most prominent on the bodice front (including the collar). Isolated areas of brown staining (oxidation), and some holes. Fabric selvage width: 26 1/8”OL, CF: 43” OL, CB: 44” Hem circumference: 77 ¼” Back yoke length: 5” Front yoke length: 5” Note: back yoke visually rides up higher because neckline dips down more in front. 3” CF dart on bodice yoke to help with fit. This dart is mostly covered by the falling collar. The gathered, fallen collar is a nod to artistic fashion. The collar is pieced on the PR side with a seam. Skirt hem has been turned up twice before hemming.

Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+F.135

Research on objects in the collections, including provenance, is ongoing and may be incomplete. If you have additional information or would like to learn more about a particular object, please email fc-museums-web@fivecolleges.edu.

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