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Culture:American
Title:bead chain
Date Made:1830-1840
Type:Adornment
Materials:textile: polychrome glass beads; silk ribbon
Place Made:North America; United States; Massachusetts; Worcester County
Measurements:Overall: 53 1/2 in x 3/8 in; 135.9 cm x 1 cm
Accession Number:  HD 2013.32
Credit Line:Mr. and Mrs. Hugh B. Vanderbilt Fund for Curatorial Acquisitions
Museum Collection:  Historic Deerfield

Description:
Long narrow chain or ribbon (sometimes referred to as a watch chain) completely decorated with tiny glass beads in green and blue. Remnant matching green silk ribbon ties at either end remain. Chains, similar to this example but woven without beads, are known to exist as early as the late 17th century, when they were sometimes known as girdles ("girdels"), possibly worn around the waist like a belt or sash. The height of beaded chains' popularity occured in the 1830s, made by girls or women both in America and abroad. They were made either for the makers themselves or as gifts or tokens to friends and loved ones. There are some similarities between these chains and schoolgirl embroideries such as samplers, which were declining in importance for female education by this time . These chains were fairly easy to make. Small, narrow looms akin to tape looms were warped with about 10 silk warp threads. A needle would thread 8-10 beads across the narrow (weft) direction in accordance with the design. They most often appear in portraits of women, draped around the neck, with the ends affixed to a watch or key (using the silk ribbon ties), tucked into a pocket or belt. On this example, the name "Abigail W. Browning" appears in the center, made using light brown colored glass beads. This may be the Abigail W. __ who was born in 1817 and who had married Richardson H. Browning (1812 or 1813-1864) of Rutland by 1838. She was widowed in 1864, when she was living in Paxton with their children. Five years later, in 1869, Abigail remarried to Jonah Howe of nearby Leicester. The extremely small glass beads may be Czech.

Label Text:
Beaded chains or ribbons were a form of jewelry popular in the 1830s. Mostly worn by women and girls like a necklace, beaded chains often draped over the shoulders, supported by wide sleeves. Some chains held a pendant or pocket watch that was tucked into a belt or fold of fabric. They were made either for the makers themselves or as gifts to others symbolizing tokens of love or friendship. The extremely small glass beads may be Venetian or Bohemian." Abigail W. Browning" may be the “Abigail W.” of Worcester, Massachusetts, who was born in 1817. She married Richardson H. Browning (1812/13 – 1864) of Rutland, Massachusetts, around 1838.

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https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+2013.32

Research on objects in the collections, including provenance, is ongoing and may be incomplete. If you have additional information or would like to learn more about a particular object, please email fc-museums-web@fivecolleges.edu.

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