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Culture:American
Title:bonnet; calash
Date Made:1770-1805
Type:Clothing
Materials:textile: green plain weave silk (taffeta); plain weave linen; reed or cane; pasteboard
Place Made:United States; Massachusetts
Accession Number:  HD 2002.38.1
Credit Line:Museum Collections Fund
Museum Collection:  Historic Deerfield

Description:
Woman's green silk calash-style bonnet in green silk with reeds or cane, stiffened linen, and pasteboard with silk ribbons. "Calash" is an adaption of the French term caleche, a French horse-drawn carriage with a collapsable hood. Like the carriage, the hood could also be collapsed or flattened when not in use. This form of head cover originated in France, but was soon popular in England and the American colonies. This style, which shielded the wearer's eyes and created a sense of modesty, remained in fashion for about 30 years in the late 18th century and experienced a revival during the 1820 to the 1840s. Such bonnets were worn over elaborate linen or cotton caps that protected them from damage cases by hair oils. The 'fall' (or 'bavolet'), the long ruffled piece at the back of some of these bonnets, also protected the modesty of the wearer as current hair styles did not cover the back of the neck. Silk bonnets strengthened with either reeds or wires gained popularity in the 1820s. Green silk was thought to have medicinal properties is sunlight was filtered through it, which is one of the reasons that silk parasoles were often made of green silk. For an example of the wearing of an actual calash, see HD 2016.12.3.

Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+2002.38.1

Research on objects in the collections, including provenance, is ongoing and may be incomplete. If you have additional information or would like to learn more about a particular object, please email fc-museums-web@fivecolleges.edu.

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