Description:
Man's tail coat of lisere striped silk, featuring a high, turned down collar and long, shaped sleeves. The fabric has a greenish-brown ground color, largely achieved by the wefts. Warp threads form alternating vertical floats 1/8" wide of both white and blue and green and yellow stripes. The stripes are a little over 1/8" apart. The coat has a high (3 3/8") turned down collar, set on the bias of a CB seam for draping. Collar is anchored at the turn down on proper right side (one would have been on proper left, now missing, to anchor the collar). Coat has triangular, turned back revers or lapels (medium width). The coat is double-breasted, with each side having an outer column of four buttons (3/4" diameter) and an inner column of four worked button holes. The coat front edges are cut away into the skirts and would reveal the top of the breeches' front. Very dropped shoulder seams, where fabric stripes are carefully lined up. The coat has a CB seam, which is angled slightly. There is one back side seam on each side, curving down from armscye to skirts, where they open up into decoratuve vents. No waist seam indicates a date before about 1803. The coat does have a long waist, to where the skirts begin. Sleeves are attached smoothly into the armscyes. The sleeves are each two piece, with an underarm and back seam. Skirts are fairly full, with a CB vent, and a decorative vent on each side (matching button at the top of each decorative vent). One pocket on each side back of the skirts, w/ deep flaps (4 1/8" long) and deep compartment (10"x8"), lined in plain, unbleached linen. Only the back and sleeves are lined in a plain weave unbleached or half bleached linen. The rest of the coat is lined in self fabric (facings?). The jacket is pieced, especially in the facings. No interfacing.
Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+2000.34 |
