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Culture:American
Title:bonnet; calash
Date Made:1770-1820
Type:Clothing
Materials:textile:checked plain weave cotton; cane; ribbon
Place Made:United States
Measurements:overall: 18 in x 11 1/2 in x 11 1/4 in; 45.72 cm x 29.21 cm x 28.575 cm
Accession Number:  HD 2007.28.2
Credit Line:Musuem Purchase with funds provided by Ray J. and Anne K. Groves
Museum Collection:  Historic Deerfield
2007-28-2t.jpg

Description:
Woman's checked cotton calash or retractable bonnet stiffened with cane and with self fabric ruching decorating the opening in front and a self fabric fall. "Calash" is an adaption of the French term caleche, a French horse-drawn carriage with a collapsable hood. Like the carriage, the hood could also be collapsed or flattened when not in use. This form of head cover originated in France to accommodate the fashionable higher hairstyles, but was soon popular in England and the American colonies. This style, which shielded the wearer's eyes, created a sense of modesty, protected the wearer’s hair and face from exposure to sun, and provided some warmth and a shield from moisture, remained in fashion for about 30 years in the late 18th century and experienced a revival during the 1820 to the 1840s. Such bonnets were worn over elaborate linen or cotton caps that protected them from damage cases by hair oils. The 'fall' (or 'bavolet'), the long ruffled piece at the back of some of these bonnets, also protected the modesty of the wearer as current hair styles did not cover the back of the neck. Silk bonnets strengthened with either reeds or wires gained popularity in the 1820s. For an example of the wearing of an actual calash, see HD 2016.12.3.

Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+2007.28.2

Research on objects in the collections, including provenance, is ongoing and may be incomplete. If you have additional information or would like to learn more about a particular object, please email fc-museums-web@fivecolleges.edu.

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