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[AC] Mead Art Museum at Amherst College; [HC] Hampshire College Art Gallery;
[HD] Historic Deerfield; [MH] Mount Holyoke College Art Museum; [MH SK] The Joseph Allen Skinner Museum at Mount Holyoke College; [SC] Smith College Museum of Art; [UM] University Museum of Contemporary Art at UMASS Amherst

 


Maker(s):fabric: William Wilson
Culture:textile: Scottish; garment: American
Title:pelisse
Date Made:1820-1830
Type:Clothing
Materials:textile: red, green and white twill weave wool (tartan); bleached (white) plain weave cotton lining; base metal: brass
Place Made:textile: United Kingdom; garment: United States; New England
Measurements:overall: 52 1/4 in.; 132.715 cm
Accession Number:  HD 2003.30
Credit Line:Museum Collections Fund
2003-30t.jpg

Description:
Woman's pelisse or redingote in red, green, and white wool MacGregor tartan. The fabric was probably woven by William Wilson's firm in Bannockburn, Scotland. The pelisse, a woman's long fitted coat or dress that opens in the front and was often trimmed with fur, was one of the most fashionable garments in the early 19th century. The original function was for both warmth and beauty. The colorful red and green combination is similar ot the shades found in in-grain carpets of the same period and slighly later. The garment has a wide, rounded collar, full sleeves (both at the armscyes and cuffs) that are extra long (buttoned at the natural wrist level), and self piping at the shoulder seams, armscyes, and bodice back. The skirt is attached to the bodice with right sides together and then flipped over, and is pleated into bodice at back. The stitching at the skirt seams averages 11 spi, and the seam allowances, which are quite narrow at 1/8", are pressed flat open. The bodice and sleeves are lined in a brown cotton. A matching belt accompanies the piece; however, there are no closures to secure belt to wearer. The center-front placket opening is secured with brass hook and eye closures (originally 10, however #s 1 & 10 are missing for hooks, #s 2,3,5,7-9 are missing for eyes).

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https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+2003.30

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