Description:
Lady's riding hat made of bleached beaver fur with a turned brim on the sides held in place with grosgrain ribbon, with corded silk decoration done in bead and coiled tassle, silk hat band and passmanterie edging, and lined in glazed cotton. The interior has an elaborately engraved lable for "David Whipple / Manufacturer. / No. 12 / MARKET ST. PROVIDENCE." David Whipple (1771-1858) first appears in a bill for repairing two hats for Mr. Jonathan Tillinghast of Providence in May and July, 1803. The label also includes a flaying American eagle holding a flowing ribbon with the inscription, "THE AMERICAN ARTS ONLY WANT ENCOURAGEMENT” over Liberty holding a Liberty Pole with a Phrygian hat (or Liberty cap) and an anchor (symbol of Hope) sitting on a tall plinth, flanked by a Native American with bow and arrow and feathered headdress and an man in a toga-like garment (a hat maker?) with his legs casually crossed and holding up a large bicorne hat. This patriotic imagery and text supporting American industry express a sentiment emblematic of American manufacturers’ appeal to consumers in the early 19th century. While patriotic impetus to buy American goods was part of the culture of the new nation, the lure of English and French imports was strong even though local manufacturers had, in essence, a captive market with the trade restrictions on imports initiated by the British trarde embargo (1807-1809), but still needed support from consumers because of the economic hardships brought on by the trade wars. The evident need for the production of hats, Mr. Whipple’s patriotic advertising campaign, and the quality of the hats that he produced apparently contributed to his success, as he continued in his profession into the 1820s. This riding hat conforms stylistically to fashionable apparel of circa 1810. Tailored wool garments and styles that suited country living were in vogue at this time, closely following the banner of the English aristocracy. The color, diminutive size, and delicate silk ribbons and cord that hold the brim in place indicate the hat was made as female attire. Riding for ladies became both fashionable and chic, and suitable headgear was part of the ensemble. The soft underfur of the beaver was particularly suited to the production of hats, as it was lightweight, sturdy, and felted easily for molding in myriad forms.
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