Description:
Woman's one-piece round gown made from a blue Chinese silk damask. The gown descended in the Manning family of Ipswich, Massachusetts. It was first worn by Miriam Lord (1748-1826), who married Richard Manning (1755-1813) in May 1776. Miriam and Richard's third daughter, Elizabeth, was the mother of Nathaniel Hawthorne's (1804-1864). Some 30 years after her wedding, the gown was altered, and as such, the garment reflects common practice of alterating garments in the 18th and 19th centuries. It also reflects the idea that until the 20th century, a woman's wedding gown was usually her best gown, not necessarily white in color. The gown is made from a rich blue damask-weave silk made in China for export to the West. The bodice lining is likely an Indian-woven, plain-weave cotton. The dress descended in the family of the first recorded wearer.
Label Text:
Building a Collection, September 27, 2025-February 23, 2025: This dress retains a family history with deep roots in both Ipswich and Salem, MA, and reflects the ongoing American fascination and desire for foreign silks. Made of imported Chinese silk, called “India damask,” the dress has the high waist, round bust, and elbow-length sleeves typical of neoclassical dresses of the early 19th century. However, the original dress dates to much earlier and was said to have been the wedding dress of Miriam Lord (1748-1826), grandmother of Nathaniel Hawthorne, who married Richard Manning (1755-1813) in May 1776. Close inspection reveals that the original dress was a robe a l’anglaise or English-style gown characterized by a fitted back of stitched-down pleats and wide skirts. This was carefully disassembled, reconfigured and pieced, saving every scrap to achieve the new stylish silhouette. Altering proved a common practice that extended the life of precious silks like this one, which voyaged many months across the oceans before arriving in America. The striking jewel blue color is not typical of American taste and might be the color referred to as “Miserene Blou” (or “bleu Mazarin”) which appears in the merchant papers of Mary Alexander (1693-1760) of New York City. In the 18th century, American women wore their best dress on their wedding day, whatever the color, and the practice of wearing white gowns did not become established until the 19th century.
Subjects:
Textile fabrics; Cotton; Silk Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+2022.6 |
