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Culture:French or Indian
Title:shawl
Date Made:1850-1870
Type:Clothing
Materials:textile: polychrome twill tapestry weave (espoline) wool; black twill weave wool; polychrome embroidery
Place Made:French or India
Accession Number:  HD V.146
Museum Collection:  Historic Deerfield

Description:
Paisley shawl with a color-blocked edge known as a harlequin border done in an espoline or twill tapestry weave. During the middle of the 19th century, shawls were a ubiquitous accessory to women's dress, available in many different qualities and pricepoints.These large square or rectangular wraps complimented the full-skirted silhouettes of women's fashion at this time. Derived from India, Kashmir shawls were originally woven from the fine underhair of goats. Coveted by wealthy Europeans at the turn of the 19th century, they quickly developed as an export item. Europeans soon began weaving their own shawls in imitation of original, Indian-produced examples. One such area included Paisley, Scotland, which soon gave its name to the stylized leaf or boteh (the original Indian name) common on many examples.

Label Text:
Shawls were ubiquitous accessories, available in different qualities and worn by women of all social classes throughout much of the 19th century. They reached their height of popularity in the 1860s, when they took the form of extremely large, busily patterned swaths of fabric that complimented voluminous, hoop-supported skirts. This better quality example was finished with a color-blocked edge known as a Harlequin border. No acquisition information available.

Subjects:
Textile fabrics; Embroidery; polychrome; Wool

Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+V.146

Research on objects in the collections, including provenance, is ongoing and may be incomplete. If you have additional information or would like to learn more about a particular object, please email fc-museums-web@fivecolleges.edu.

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