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Culture:American
Title:bonnet
Date Made:1840-1845
Type:Clothing
Materials:textile: silk; base metal: wire
Place Made:United States
Measurements:overall: 10 1/2 x 7 x 7 1/2 in.; 26.67 x 17.78 x 19.05 cm
Accession Number:  HD V.165
Credit Line:Gift of Mrs. Ely W. Wyman
Museum Collection:  Historic Deerfield
V-165f.jpg

Description:
Woman's calash-style drawn bonnet made of dark reddish brown sheer silk (gauze), framed with 16 vertical (evenly spaced at about 3/4" intervals) and 7 horizontal wire ribs forming the brim. "Calash" is a term taken from the carriage cover which could be collapsed or flattened when not in use. This form of head cover originated in France, but was soon popular in England and the American colonies. This style, which shielded the wearer's eyes and created a sense of modesty, remained in fashion for about 30 years in the late 18th century and experienced a revival during the 1820 to the 1840s. Such bonnets were worn over elaborate linen or cotton caps that protected them from damage cases by hair oils. The 'fall' (or 'bavolet'), the long ruffled piece at the back of some of these bonnets, also protected the modesty of the wearer as current hair styles did not cover the back of the neck. Silk bonnets strengthened with either reeds or wires gained popularity in the 1820s. This bonnet is undecorated except for self-ruching along front and back edges of brim; the fall is 11" long; and the plain, rdeddish-brown silk ribbon ties are 16" x 1 3/4".

Subjects:
Textile fabrics; Silk

Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+V.165

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