Description:
Woman's drawn calash-style bonnet in off-white or tan silk taffeta and cotton lace and cloth flowers. Silk bonnets strengthened with either reeds or wires gained popularity in the 1820s. "Calash" is a term taken from the carriage cover which could be collapsed or flattened when not in use. This form of head cover originated in France, but was soon popular in England and the American colonies. This style, which shielded the wearer's eyes and created a sense of modesty, remained in fashion for about 30 years in the late 18th century and experienced a revival during the 1820 to the 1840s. Such bonnets were worn over elaborate linen or cotton caps that protected them from damage cases by hair oils. The 'fall' (or 'bavolet'), the long ruffled piece at the back of some of these bonnets, also protected the modesty of the wearer as current hair styles did not cover the back of the neck. Silk bonnets strengthened with either reeds or wires gained popularity in the 1820s. This bonnet has wire ribs in 6 groups of 5 (edge of brim), 1, 2 or 3 (body) and 4 (back of bonnet), over which silk is gathered and hand sewn (between ribs). The ribs are both wire, cotton wrapped wire or straw canes ("reeds," like wicker). The crown and bavolet sections are stitched on to brim made of 3 separate pieces (crown, brim and .75" section between them). The crown is lined with crinoline and gauze. There are cotton cloth flowers inside lower edges of brim: 4 Red poppies, 4 yellow buttercups, 5 blue batchelor's buttons, white, purple and pink daisys; and white tightly crimped gauzy cotton lace along outer edge of brim. The 2.75" fall (or bavolet) is piped along edges and lined with cotton gauze for stiffness. The cream-colored striped silk ribbon with piqued edge on outside has been pinned on.
Subjects:
Textile fabrics; Cotton; Silk Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+V.164 |
