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Culture:American
Title:coat
Date Made:1825-1830
Type:Clothing
Materials:textile: dark blue wool broadcloth, silk, cotton; base metal: brass buttons
Place Made:United States; Massachusetts; Shelburne
Accession Number:  HD 86.109
Credit Line:Gift in Memory of Helen Geier Flynt
Museum Collection:  Historic Deerfield

Description:
Man's dark blue wool broadcloth, cutaway coat with brass buttons, which was bought at the auction of Barnard family belongings in 1968, at the Francis Barnard barn in the Patten Hill district of Shelburne, Massachusetts. The property had been in the Barnard family since 1790 when Elisha Barnard (1763-1845), the son of John Barnard (1713-1785) and Ruth Catlin Barnard (1721/2-1785), originally of Deerfield, moved to Shelburne during the Revolution and built the house. The property descended through the family to their son, Elisha Barnard (1807-1886); then Francis Edward Barnard (1836-1889); to David Barnard (1874-1961); and then to Francis Barnard (1898-1988) who sold the property in 1968. One of the most "stylish" cut-away coats in the HD collection, this coat is a rare example of what could be called the "French" style, which is narrow at the waist and the hips emphasized with heavy gathers where the "tails" are attached to the main body of the coat. This is seen in French fashion plates of the period, and is quite unlike the generally accepted forms in England, which were slimmer and less exaggerated. The coat's notched collar, which became an important feature in the early 19th century, enbled the tailor to visually connect the lapels with a much higher, turned-down collar. It also added a point of visual interest in a monochromatic garment. Sometimes the edge was trimmed with a narrow braid or cord to enhance this subtle design element. High quality wool broadcloth had been successfully manufactured in the United States, and in particular New England, since the early 19th century; it was easy to use and long lasting.

Subjects:
Textile fabrics; Brass; Cotton; Silk; Wool

Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+86.109

Research on objects in the collections, including provenance, is ongoing and may be incomplete. If you have additional information or would like to learn more about a particular object, please email fc-museums-web@fivecolleges.edu.

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