Description:
Embroidered and beaded gown made by the House of Worth, Paris. It is constructed from a Jacquard-woven, Japanese-inspired figured sik with beige lace (back fastening) top. Inside petersham of the gown's bodice is stamped: "WORTH./7 RUE DE LA PAIX PARIS." Inside the bodice, there are eight areas of boning (probably baleen) to give support and definition to the waistline. The pattern of the primary fabric is vaguley Japanese or Chinese, with repeating cloud motifs. Likewise, the net lace echoes an Eastern theme with its crescent moon motifs. The high neck, pouter-pigeon bodice front, and shortened sleeves suggest a fashionable date of about 1905-1910. The light brown colored silk skirt lining is on the bias to help drape it better when worn. This gown was worn by the donor's mother, Eleanor Fitzgerald Esleeck (1887-1972) of New York City. Fitzgerald was born on March 16, 1887, the daughter of Surrogate Judge Frank T. Fitzgerald and Mrs. Fitzgerald. She attended Smith College (class of 1908) and married Irving N. Esleeck of Greenfield, Massachusetts ca 1916. The exact occasion for the dress remains unknown, and while too early to be her wedding dress or to be worn in her life as a married woman, it may have been purchased for the wearer upon completion of her undergraduate degree as a sort of coming out dress. It could have been purchased in Paris, or perhaps been imported by a dressmaker in New York City, where Fitzgerald purchased many of her garments. Exclusive dressmakers could purchase couture models, either for specific customers, or else to sell in their store. Boston dressmaker Mary Ruby was one such dressmaker who made yearly trips to Paris to purchase couture pieces (see also HD V.096) . This garment is an important illustration of the patronage of the venerable House of Worth by Esleeck and other Americans, a right of passage for many women from families who could afford to own at least one of the sought-after dresses. Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) is considered the founder of the French Haute Couture system (La Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne). An Englishman who emigrated to Paris in the 1840s, he opened his house in 1857 or 1858, in partnership with a Swedish man named Otto-Gustave Boberge. In 1870, the partnership dissolved, and Worth went out on his own. The House of Worth enjoyed a zenith during the 1860s-1890s. Textiles and sense of balance were key design elements to Worth creations. The house pioneered several practices now standard in the couture, such as the patronage of French luxury firms including fabrics (Lyon), embroidery and trim, as well as a system of standardized pattern pieces for interchangeable design elements. When Worth died in 1895, his sons Jean Philipe (1856-1926) and Gaston-Lucien (1853-1924) took over the business. Gaston handled the business affairs, while Jean Philipe was the designer for the house, and probably designed this dress. The purchase of this dress by Fitzgerald was a safe, conservative choice with instant name recognition, unlike other, more daring couturiers working at the time like Paul Poiret. A pair of shoes (HD 94.004.01a/b) were supposedly worn with this dress.
Link to share this object record:
https://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?t=objects&type=ext&id_number=HD+94.004.01 |
